Behind the Forgotten Doors: Abandoned Armenian Churches in Tbilisi

Walking toward the Sioni Cathedral on one of the main tourist streets, I looked up between the buildings and saw a green brick church dome. The dome looked old, with grass or wheat sprouting from the brickwork. I took a picture and wondered which church that was. Then, at the next opening between the buildings, I saw that amazing turquoise dome again. What is this place, I wondered…

On my multiple visits to Old Tbilisi, I had missed this church, and this may have been the first time I spotted it. The dome intrigued me, so I had to explore what this newfound place was. I was quite taken aback to learn it was another abandoned Armenian church.

Surb Nshan: A Church Waiting to Live Again

For centuries, Surb Nshan Church stood as a witness to Armenian Christianity in Tbilisi. Dating back at least to the early 17th century, it became a place of worship, education, priestly training, and community life. Generations gathered within its walls, while nearby schools prepared children and future church leaders. Its cemetery preserved the memory of those who had lived and worshiped there.

Soviet rule interrupted that life. The church was closed in 1928, briefly returned to the community in 1930, and closed again in May 1931. Despite repeated appeals by the Armenian Church to reopen it, the building was put to other uses. It became a warehouse, library storage facility, and workshop. Its religious purpose was never restored.

On the church’s exterior, a sign states that Armenian leaders petitioned the authorities in 1931 to reopen the church for the Armenian community. Yet the authorities never heeded this request.

After Georgia gained independence, the church continued to deteriorate. Fires in 2002 and 2012 destroyed much of its interior and severely damaged its structure. Although efforts were made to secure and restore the building, ownership disputes, surrounding development, and unresolved access issues prevented completion.

Today, Surb Nshan stands in the middle of an increasingly developed neighborhood, surrounded by buildings and disconnected from the community that once filled it with life. Its damaged walls and ruined interior preserve the evidence of a long Christian history, but its doors no longer welcome a worshiping congregation. Along the perimeter, multiple dwellings have popped up, making any constructive future impossible.

It is more than an old building in need of repair. It represents a Christian community’s lost place of worship, an unresolved historical inheritance, and a reminder of how quickly a living place of faith can become an abandoned monument.

A visit to Surb Nshan

On my visit to the location, I share my first impressions.

Provenance of the Building

Documentary evidence shows that this Armenian church existed at the site of Surb Nshan in Tbilisi well before the construction of the present 1703-1720 building. In 1624, an Armenian manuscript colophon mentions Priest Andri of Caesarea donating a manuscript to St. Nicholas Church in Tbilisi. By 1656, another manuscript records a donation to Surb Nshan, while a 1662 inscription documents renovation work and identifies a stonemason or architect named Navasard. In 1673, the French traveler Jean Chardin mentioned Surb Nshan among the eight Armenian churches in Tbilisi, further confirming its presence in the city during the seventeenth century. These details provide a provenance paper trail that can help identify the original 17th-century worship space.

The present Surb Nshan Church was constructed or substantially rebuilt between 1703 and 1720, replacing or incorporating an earlier Armenian church on the same site. Later, between 1780 and 1784, they added a dome, further shaping the church’s architectural appearance. The development of domes, church bell towers, and additions often occurred when the community had the financial means.

Former Interior of Surb Nshan

The church’s interior was enriched with frescoes in 1830, commissioned by churchwarden Avetik Piroyan (his image and memorial remain on the exterior). The pre-fire murals are thought to be from the Hovnatanyan school of Armenian painting, although the individual painters have not been conclusively identified. Photographs taken by S. Darchinian in 1976 preserve a rare visual record of these paintings before the devastating fires.^[1]See https://raa-am.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Sourb-Nshan-Sourb-Nikoghayosi-Church-Tbilisi.pdf for a full write-up on the site.

Walking Tour of Armenian Ruins and Churches

Here is a walking tour of some of the Armenian ruins in Tbilisi.

An abandoned Armenian church in Tbilisi may stand quietly today, but its walls still carry the memory of a Christian faith that once shaped generations. Exploring such places reminds us that Christianity is more than buildings, traditions, or historical remnants. At its heart lies the revelation of who God is.

This is also where my exploration moves beyond history into theology. What does it mean to believe in the oneness of God? Is God’s oneness an isolated, absolute singularity, or does the biblical revelation show us something far deeper about His eternal nature?

In my book The Absurdity of God’s Oneness, I explore these questions through Scripture, examining the biblical revelation of the Father, the Son, and their divine oneness. The forgotten churches of the past remind us that the Christian faith deserves more than a passing glance. Its deepest truths invite us to search out who God is.

Explore the history. Discover the faith. Search below the surface.