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During my visit to Ravenna, I found myself confused about the significance of the Basilicas and the historical context surrounding them. I observed most tourists entering Ravenna’s Byzantine churches only took a brief look without understanding some of the historical context. So, I decided to approach the situation by mapping out three Byzantine periods that mark the historic churches of Ravenna.
Ravenna’s Byzantine periods provide essential context for the basilicas on the UNESCO World Heritage list. In the first period, from before 493, the Byzantine influence left a mark on the city. During the second period, from 493 to 540, the Arian false teaching prevailed and created a new characteristic of art. From 540 to the 600s and beyond, the imperial Constantinople-sanctioned monuments were constructed in the final period.
Recommended Chronological Tour of Ravenna’s Byzantine Monuments
The old part of the city is for walking and biking so easy for a walking tour. To cover the Byzantine history well, one may need 3 to 4 days of visiting.
Day 1 – Ravenna Favoring Byzantine Influence
The important buildings during the time that the churches of Ravenna favored the Constantinople Byzantine influence.
My google map to follow.
Day one – visit San Giovanni Evangelista Church (425 AD – #35 [numbers based on Ravenna tourism map]). Then cross the city to St. Croce Church and Mausoleum of Galla Placidia (425-450 AD – #2 and #10). One can visit the Mausoleum without visiting the San Vitale first; book your online ticket (excellent price for a bundle ticket) for different days, and the guards will let you walk around the church to Galla Placidia.
While there, visiting the National Museum (#9) will give an excellent overview of different religious items from the city (or you can see this on day three – this museum can take two hours). Near this complex is the Domos Dei Tappeti Di Pietra (House of the Stone Carpets (#13 ) Most of these stone mosaics are from this time and give insights to Ravenna’s Byzantine landscape.
Afterward, head over to Neonian Baptistery (490s and #4) and from there, one can visit San Francesco Church (open from 3 to 7 pm during the evenings 450 AD and # 29) and at least the outside of the St. Agatha Church (only open on Saturday and Sunday. #34)
Day 2 – Arian Influence on Ravenna
Theodoric (454 – 526 AD), a seasoned warrior who fought for the emperor in Constantinople, was determined to seize influence and power to establish himself as king. He resolved to take control of Ravenna’s theological and political landscape by ruling the Western Roman Empire. He left his influence on Ravenna’s Byzantine landscape.
Arianism was a big debate in the 5th century, but the councils shut down this influence. Amazingly, in Ravenna, the sites built by this heresy remain and show their desire to make Christ more human than divine. Notice the emphasis on Christ’s humanity by him wearing a scarlet robe or remaining beardless in some of the mosaics you will see on this walking tour.
On this day, we will start on the south side of the old city area. Near to the first monument is the Basilica of Santa Maria in Porto. Even though it is a 16th-century church, one marble panel comes from Istanbul and the Art Museum is near that location also.
I noticed on this days tour the Arian influence settled closer to the port and the east side of the city. It is quite possible that that is where the space to built existed, but the city conditions during that time were not apparent to me.
Walking Tour Day 2 – the Arian route
Day 3 – The Byzantine Empire Influence on Ravenna
Days 3 and 4 will cover this period of Empire-sanctioned churches if possible. Most of us wanted to see the Basilica of San Vitale on the first day in town, but when my wife and I waited, we were awed by what we saw on this day. If we had done these things first, then the locations from days one and two would not have had as much meaning. Yet, looking at things chronologically helped us see how Christianity grew in influence over the 5th and 6th centuries.
The third period of Byzantine influence came in 540, when the Byzantine forces commanded by Belisarius took Ravenna. He is depicted as the bearded man just to the right of Empire Justinian with the balding Maximianus, the bishop, next to him.
On this day, we started at the Archiepiscopal Museum and saw a few things from the first time period, yet the chapel and even the church nearby Duomo, gives hints to how amazing these churches were.
Day 4 – Basilica in Classe, Italy
There are a few local ways to get to the Basilica St. Apollinare in Classe, Italy: the train or the bus. Tickets are needed for the bus, which can be bought at small shops near a bus stop or by the bus ticket machine. It is best to look online for times and locations. We took the #4 bus that came from the train station and passed near the Southern Gate (New Gate). Also, there is a bicycle path in this town if one prefers this mode of transportation.
These three Byzantine periods will give the visitor a grasp of the Christian influence of this city. I also have other walking tours of Istanbul, Antalya, Turkiye and Seoul, Korea.
I enjoy contrasting and observing differences; please check out my books related to Islam and marriage.
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